The Guru:

Chris Dorsey

You almost cannot say E-Prepared without mentioning the name Chris Dorsey. He is the only driver in the history of the class to win in two different cars, let alone in different drivetrains. Along with his highly developed Toyota Corolla GTS, Dorsey has claimed the last 3 championships in the class, setting the 6th largest margin of victory in Solo Nationals history along the way. However, according to Chris, there is more than one way to skin the EP cat.

The Pitch:

The foundation principle of E-Prepared is that there is something very appealing about creating a fast car from something that was never intended to do anything more than move people around and haul groceries. E-Prepared takes this idea to the limit by providing a playgound for people to turn small sedans and coupes into some of the fastest production based cars in SCCA Solo competition. What was once an economical method of no frills transportation is transformed into something capable of claiming fast time of the day at any event, against cars designed from the factory to outperform them by a wide margin. If FSP is making pigs fly, EP is strapping jet engines to them and trying to break the sound barrier.

The Scoop:

Lately there has been a great deal of discussion around front wheel drive vs. rear wheel drive cars in EP. Both layouts have their advantages and it is hard to say which is truly better. One thing to consider, unlike their DP counterparts, most EP platforms are generally nose heavy, which can make it difficult to put the power to the ground in a rear drive car. Obviously, a rear drive car can win in the class, but to build a RWD winner will take more engineering than many of the front wheel drive options. Ultimately, drivetrain layout comes down to driver preference, engineering prowlace and budget.

Regardless of drivetrain, the key when choosing a chassis for EP is to really focus on weight. To be competitive, choose a chassis that you can build to its minimum weight (1.0 pound per cubic centimeter of displacement) with reasonable modifications. This is a bit easier with cars manufactured prior to all the modern crash and safety standards but you can make modern cars with larger displacement engines work as well. It is, however, worth noting that no car built later than 1987 has ever won an EP National title.

Power to weight ratio is important when choosing your EP contender. To win a National Championship in EP, your power to weight ratio probably needs to be 0.125 or greater (at the crank). This means that a 1500cc engine needs to make about 190 hp at the crank and a 2000cc engine about 250 hp at the crank. While these statistics may seem like “race engine” type numbers, there are many examples of very reliable, “garage built” engines on the grid achieving this level of performance.

The Price Tag:

As with any “builder’s class” car, the cost of a competitive EP car can range greatly. A straight and rust free 1980s Honda Civic/CRX or VW A1 chassis will cost you $1,000 to $3,000. Some of the more hard to find chassis, like the Mazda RX3, Toyota Corolla GTS and Starlet, can bring a premium and run up to about $5,000.

Once you have a chassis picked out, look it over and see where things can be improved. Early spaceframe cars can usually benefit from chassis stiffening in the form of a roll bar. GCR legal roll cages are not required in Prepared coupes and sedans, so you have the freedom to build what works without adding unnecessary weight. The best design for an EP roll structure will tie the front and rear suspension structures together and add strength to the open passenger compartment. At a minimum, this usually takes the form of a single high hoop with a diagonal bar behind the driver, down bars to the rear shock towers and some crossed door bars running forward to a single low hoop under the cowl. Typically a good roll structure will also include bars through the firewall from the low hoop to the front shock towers or frame rails with bracing, removable if necessary, between the front shock towers and rear shock towers. A good roll structure will generally cost you between $1,000 and $3,000.

Given that the Prepared category rules regarding suspension are very open, a basic EP setup starts around $1,500 and goes up from there, with shocks being the biggest and most variable expense. The EP suspension rules allow you to change almost everything about the factory suspension system, including converting front struts to double A-arms and changing the location of the suspension attachment points. The only noteworthy restrictions on suspension in EP are that the original basic rear suspension type (e.g. independent, live axle, swing axle, MacPherson strut, A-arm, etc.) must be retained and the wheelbase cannot change more than 1” from the original layout.

While this flexibility certainly attracts those who wish to do more than currently allowed in Street Prepared, the time to design, build and develop custom suspensions can add up quickly. Stock car suspension parts sold by companies like Speedway Motors are a great place to start. These parts are engineered for race cars and can be very affordable. Over the years there have been a few examples of EP cars taking full advantage of the suspension allowances to fix a chassis’ shortcomings. Kevin Wenzel’s VW Rabbit had a custom fabricated SLA front suspension and Tom Ellam’s RX3 had a fully adjustable front double A-arm setup that utilized some off the self components. The 2004 National Championship winning Honda CRX utilized a Mumford linkage to locate the rear twist axel and lower the roll center. You can also find a couple of RWD Toyotas running inboard rear shocks with push rods and bellcranks to control the solid rear axle. Just keep in mind that while these allowances are good options for car builders, they are in no way required to be competitive in EP. In most cases, EP suspensions are very similar to the setups found in Street Prepared cars.

One item that simply can’t be overlooked is a good limited slip differential. There are plenty of good options out there starting under $1,000. Next, belly up for a set of lightweight wheels, which range from $1,000 to $2,000 and mount a set of good racing slicks. Slicks will set you back $1,000 to $1,400, and you’ll need at least 2 sets per year, but this is probably the biggest bang for the buck in EP.

An entry level EP engine, with just high compression pistons, ported head, cam(s), exhaust header, ignition, and an intake with Weber carburetors will run about $3,500. However, a top level, race shop built, fuel injected race engine can easily cost you $10,000. Most engines found on the EP grid fall somewhere right in the middle. Additionally, a lightly used or refreshed club racing engine can sometimes be purchased for about half the original investment, and the years of development are free!

Depending on your car choice, you will probably want to spend some money on fiberglass, carbon and polycarbonate to keep the weight down. Otherwise, EP cars can be pretty simple. Most people run stock transmissions, basic lightweight clutch and flywheel setups, minimal interiors and basic fuel systems.

In general, a competitive EP can be built or purchased from $11,000 to $26,000 but a fully seasoned and developed car can have more than $40,000 invested.

The Honest Truth:

There are a few downsides to building and driving any Prepared category car. It is best to invest in a trailer and tow vehicle from the start, because you’ll end up there eventually. A competitive example of an EP car would be painful and frankly unsafe to drive on the streets. Additionally, you’re probably going to need special race gas which can be expensive and hard to find.

Keep in mind, driving an EP car can take some getting used to. They are loud, uncomfortable, often intimidating and things happen very, very fast. It will take you 5-6 events just to get used to the speed. They can be tempermental and they will break. Always remember, these are real race cars and you should embrace all of the above. When they are good, they are great, and when they are bad, they still make for great bench racing.

Top Tips:

Go with what you Know:

The best way to get started in EP is to start with what you have, or can get your hands on. A good F Street Prepared car is the perfect foundation for EP and not that far off the pace.

Never stop Development: For your first year, make a reasonable attempt to lower the weight, bolt on some slicks and go drive. While you are getting used to the speed, develop the suspension and start building a reliable EP engine for your second year driving the car. Once you are happy with the car, try something new. Never stop your development because your competition won’t stop theirs.

Sneek a Peek:

Keep an eye on what others are doing. Some of the current trends in EP are Avon tires on 10” wide wheels and small displacement fuel injected engines. Be aware, though, copying something big like wheel and tires will only pay dividends if you get the rest of the car dialed into the change. Big changes get lots of attention, but little changes are what makes a car work.